Sightseeing in Istanbul

Effortlessly combining ancient Ottoman mosques with contemporary culture and nightlife, Istanbul has become one of the world`s hottest destinations. The Turkish city is packed with historic buildings, modern galleries and enlightening museums to keep visitors busy during the day and at night it comes alive with youthful locals flocking to the latest hip new bars and clubs. Tourists can visit the intriguing Topkapi Palace, the Byzantine splendour of Haghia Sophia, the delightfully fragrant spice market or the tranquillity of Yildiz Park. Whether you are interested in exploring the colourful culture of this historic city, marvelling at architectural wonders or enjoying contemporary entertainment, Istanbul has something for you. A must see for any visitor is the spectacular Blue Mosque, also known locally as the Sultan Ahmet Mosque. The beautiful structure is situated in the oldest part of the city and is one of Istanbul`s most famous landmarks. The gorgeous curves and multiple minarets create a stunning exterior and inside the breathtaking blue tile designs that give the mosque its name create a truly unique space. Tourists are welcome every day except during prayer time and, as with most place of worship, visitors should remember to dress appropriately, including covering the legs and shoulders. Female visitors should cover their hair. For an exhilarating insight into Istanbul`s mercantile past, try a shopping trip to the Grand Bazaar. This immense marketplace has been around since the mid 15th-century and getting lost amongst its labyrinthine lanes is an unforgettable Istanbul experience. Put your haggling skills to the test and hunt for bargains among stores selling everything from tourist trinkets to gold jewellery, textiles and leather goods. No matter what time you go the Grand Bazaar is likely to be crowded and manic so do keep an eye on your purse and be prepared for some persistent sales pitches. For an educational experience that will appeal to all ages, the somewhat underrated Archaeological Museum in the Gülhane area offers an interesting respite from the bustle of the city. Five thousand years of Turkish history is thoughtfully displayed in the three buildings of this complex. There are some quite incredible archaeological finds in here, including a copy of a document from the 13th century BC. It is worth setting aside at least half a day to really explore this treasure trove of ancient artefacts. For a completely different cultural experience, the more recent Istanbul Modern is a large gallery dedicated to modern art. Art fans will love wandering through this renovated warehouse admiring abstract paintings, photographs and sculptures produced by local artists. The works on display highlight Istanbul`s position as the gateway between Europe and Asia as both western and eastern influences can be detected in much of the collection. The museum also houses a lovely restaurant with fine views over Old Istanbul. After a day of culture and history, night time in Istanbul offers visitors the perfect location to really relax and let their hair down. New bars seem to open every week so it is always a good idea to chat to locals and find out where the hottest places to be seen are during your visit. Whether you prefer intimate live music venues, the pumping sounds of international DJs or something in between, you can find it in Istanbul. The city also offers cultural entertainment and it is well worth checking out the upcoming programme of the Istanbul State Opera and Ballet to see what is showing during your trip.

Topkapı Palace

Home of the Ottoman sultans for nearly 400 years,Topkapı Palace (Palace of the Cannon Gate) was the seraglio, the heart of the vast Ottoman Empire, ruled by the monarch who lived in Topkapı's hundreds of rooms with hundreds of concubines, children, and white and black servants. Because Topkapı is No. 1 on everyone's list of Istanbul sights, get there when it opens (09:00 am, till 17:00 [5 pm]; closed Tuesday; TL20 admission fee for adults) and go straight to the Harem (additional TL15 admission fee). Once accessible only by guided tour, you can now wander through the Harem on your own, as you choose; but only a certain number of visitors are allowed at one time, so go there first to avoid waiting. After wandering through the Harem you can stroll the palace's spacious grounds and four courtyards at your leisure. Don't miss the Treasury in the 3rd courtyard, with its incredible gems, gold, and works of art. Just down the hill to the west of the palace are the Istanbul Archeological Museums, and beyond them is shady Gülhane Park, a fine place for a stroll or a soothing glass of tea. When you're done at Topkapı, head for Ayasofya (Hagia Sophia), right next door, and the Blue Mosque, next door to Ayasofya on the Byzantine Hippodrome.

Hagia Sophia

The Church of the Divine Wisdom (Hagia Sophia in Greek) in Sultanahmet, Istanbul, is one of the most impressive and important buildings ever constructed. Its wide, flat dome was a daring engineering feat in the 6th century, and architects still marvel at the building's many innovations. Called Hagia Sophia in Greek, Sancta Sophia in Latin, Ayasofya in Turkish, it was built on the site of Byzantium's acropolis by Emperor Justinian (527-65 AD) in 537 AD. Ayasofya was the greatest church in Christendom, and was meant to be. According to Prof. Robert Osterhout, it was built to surpass the gigantic Church of St Polyeuchtos erected by Julia Anitzia, scion of the line of Theodosian emperors. Julia meant her church, a "recreation" of the Temple of Jerusalem, to symbolize her wealth, power and legitimate claim to the throne of Byzantium. Justinian had to out-build her to establish his own legitimacy—and he did. His church remained the largest church ever built until St Peter's Basilica was constructed in Rome a thousand years later. (Julia's church, by the way, was destroyed by an earthquake. You can see a few beautiful ruins of it near the traffic under/overpass between the Istanbul City Hall and Aqueduct of Valens. Being the world's most impressive building, it's no wonder that Mehmet the Conqueror proclaimed it a mosque soon after his conquest of the city from the Byzantines in 1453. It served as Istanbul's most revered mosque until 1935 when Atatürk, recognizing its world-historical significance, had it proclaimed a museum, as it is now. Although most of the building is still a museum, a room on the east side was opened in 2007 as a prayer-place, and the call to prayer is proclaimed from the minaret above it. Ayasofya is awe-inspiring—one of the first things to see when you're in Istanbul. Luckily, it's right next toTopkapı Palace, the Blue Mosque and the Byzantine Hippodrome, and right across the street from the Basilica Cistern. The 30 million gold tesserae (tiny mosaic tiles) which cover the church's interior—especially the dome—are now being restored to the brilliance they boasted 1500 years ago. The interior was filled with scaffolding for more than 17 years, but as of February 2010, much of the scaffolding has been removed, so if you visited before when the scaffolding was in place, you may want to visit again. There's more to see, and it looks far better, since the restoration. Be sure to climb to the mezzanine level to see the splendid Byzantine mosaics. Ayasofya is one of the stops on Backpackers Travel's Old Istanbul Walking Tour, a good way to have a look at the major sights. More... I wrote a short article for Travel & Leisure magazine (US) about Ayasofya entitled "Ayasofya: the Perfect Space."

Blue Mosque

Istanbul's imperial Mosque of Sultan Ahmet is called the Blue Mosque because of its interior tiles, mostly on the upper level and difficult to see unless you're right up there with them. Forget the blue tiles! The mosque (built 1603-17) is the masterwork of Ottoman architect Sedefkâr Mehmet Ağa. It's built on the site of the Great Palace of Byzantium, on the southeastern side of the Hippodrome. With its six minarets and a great cascade of domes, the mosque is a worthy sibling to Ayasofya (Hagia Sophia) just a few minutes' stroll to the north. The Blue Mosque has fascinating secrets revealed in my travel memoir, Bright Sun, Strong Tea, and on the Magic of the Blue Mosque page. This is one of Istanbul's premier sights, and you're welcome to visit at most times of day, for free (donations gratefully received). But it's also a working mosque, so it's closed to non-worshippers for a half hour or so during the five daily prayers (here are the prayer times), and may be closed for a longer time from midday on Friday, the Muslim holy day. The way to properly appreciate the splendid architecture of the Blue Mosque is to approach it from the Hippodrome (that is, from the west) so you can appreciate the Magic of the Blue Mosque. If you are a non-Muslim visitor, you must enter by the door on the south side of the mosque (to the right as you enter from the Hippodrome. If you're entering from the Ayasofya side, the tourist entrance is on the opposite side of the mosque.)

Grand Bazaar

Istanbul's Grand Bazaar (KapalıÇarşı, or Covered Market) is Turkey's largest covered market offering excellent shopping: beautiful Turkish carpets, glazed tiles and pottery, copper and brassware, apparel made of leather, cotton and wool, meerschaum pipes, alabaster bookends and ashtrays, and all sorts of other things. Most guidebooks claim that it has 4000 shops. Because of consolidation and replacement of shops by restaurants and other services the number is certainly lower, but you get the idea: it has lots of shops. Not all of them, by the way, are for tourists; locals shop here as well, lending a welcome dose of authenticity. A dozen restaurants in the bazaar allow you to have lunch in the midst of your shopping. Note that the bazaar is closed entirely on Sunday, as is the Egyptian (Spice) Market. (These bazaars also usually close at mid-day on the day preceding major multi-day Islamic holidays, and stay closed for the holiday's first day, but then open on the second day of the holiday.) You'll want to hone your bargaining skills before you plunge into the markets. Tips... Beware of pickpockets and bag-slashers in the crowds. Divan Yolu, the avenue from Sultanahmet to Beyazit Square (the large plaza next to the Grand Bazaar) offers many interesting sights so the walk is a pleasant one. However, the easiest way to get from Sultanahmet to the Grand Bazaar (and vice-versa) is via the Bağcılar tram uphill from Sultanahmet; get out at the Çarşıkapı stop. By the way, going by taxi is not so great (and certainly not cheap) because your taxi must negotiate a tortuous route around one-way streets, pedestrian-only and tramcar-only areas. To really see Istanbul's markets, take my Istanbul Bazaars Walking Tour from the Grand Bazaar downhill along Uzunçarsi Caddesi ("Longmarket Street") to the Rüstem Paşa Mosque and the Egyptian (Spice) Bazaar on the Golden Horn by the Galata Bridge.

Beyoğlu

Beyoğlu is the district on the north bank of the Golden Horn, from Karaköy (Galata) and the Galata Bridge to Taksim Square. In the 1800s this was the newer, more European section of Istanbul. Embassies were built here, foreign merchants lived and worked here, and they shopped at the posh boutiques along the Grande Rue de Péra, now called Istiklal Caddesi. This was also one of the neighborhoods favored by the sultan's Jewish subjects and still has a few beautiful small synagogues. Galatasaray Square, midway along Istiklal Caddesi, is where the first European-style lycée (high school) was built by the Ottoman sultan during the 19th century. Also here is the famed Çiçek Pasajı (Flower Passage) dining and taverna district. At the southern end of Istiklal Caddesi near Tünel Square is a Whirling Dervish hall in which the Mevlevi dervishes still whirl. More... Today Beyoğlu is enjoying a cultural and architectural revival. The huge embassies are now consulates, the shops are posh again, and Istiklal Caddesi (the Grande Rue) is a popular pedestrian mall filled with strollers day and night. The pedestrian avenue and its side streets boast lots of nightlife: chic cafe-bars, bistros, restaurants and music clubs.

The Pera Museum Beyoğlu's Tepebaşı district near the grand old Pera Palace Hotel, is a real gem, and admission is free of charge. On the Bosphorus shore at Tophane, on the edge of Beyoğlu, is the Istanbul Modern Art Museum.

Dolmabahçe Palace

Dolmabahçe Palace on the European shore of the Bosphorus in Istanbul is a fitting symbol of the magnificence and decadence of the 19th-centuryOttoman Empire. It's just as a sultan's palace should be: huge and sumptuous, with 285 rooms, 43 large salons, a 4000 kg (4-1/2-ton) Bohemian glass chandelier, and a Bosphorus-shore façade nearly a quarter mile (1/2 km) long. It's the grandest of Ottoman imperial palaces (closed Monday & Thursday; stay 2-3 hrs; guided tour required). The cheapest, most comfortable way to get there is by the Zeytinburnu-Kabataş tram which runs from Sultanahmet Square down to Eminönü, across the Golden Horn to Karaköy (Galata), then north almost to the palace. You can walk from Taksim Square downhill to Dolmabahçe (it's about a mile, or 1.6 km), but the walk back uphill is tiring, so you may want to take a taxi or the Füniküler from Kabataş. The palace was designed by Ottoman Armenian architects Karabet and Nikogos Balian for Sultan Abdulmecit (1839-61). When it was finished in 1856, the imperial family moved out of medieval Topkapı Palace to live in European-style opulence. Kemal Atatürk (1881-1938), founder of the Turkish Republic, died here on November 10, 1938 during a visit to the city.

Princess Islands

The nine small islands about 20 km (10.5 miles) southeast of the center of Istanbul in the Sea of Marmara (map) were called the Princes Islands by foreign chroniclers because of Byzantine emperors' practice of sending bothersome princes there to be blinded, exiled or executed, but today's citizens of Istanbul call them simply Adalar ("The Islands"). In medieval times they were the sites of monasteries, away from the bustle and temptations of the city., but with the advent of steamships and convenient ferryboat service the 19th century, the four larger islands—Büyükada, Heybeliada, Burgazada and Kınalıada— became summer resorts. Istanbul's wealthy Ottoman families, especially Greeks, Jews and Armenians, built elaborate Victorian summer cottages along the narrow island-village streets. The quiet ambience of a century ago is preserved today as no private motor vehicles are allowed on any of the islands. Everyone walks, or rides bicycles, or takes horse-drawn carriages (fayton). In summer, six to 10 IDO ferries a day make the 90-minute voyage from the Kabataş ferry dock to Kınalıada, Burgazada, Heybeliada and Büyükada. The voyage is half the fun as your ferry enters steams down the Bosphorus and into the Sea of Marmara, showing you Topkapı Palace, Ayasofya, the Blue Mosque, Seraglio Point, and indeed all of Istanbul, from a different angle. On your first visit go to Büyükada, the most interesting island, where you can take an island tour by horse-drawn carriage, or rent a bike and tour the island yourself, and have lunch or dinner, and sip drinks, and even perhaps have a swim at one of the tiny beaches. Note that the islands get mobbed on summer weekends. In July and August, plan your visit for a weekday (Monday through Friday) if possible. More... Büyükada and Heybeliada even have a few hotels, should you want to stay the night, but reserve well in advance in summer, especially on weekends. Prices are high for food and lodging, as all provisions must be brought to the islands by boat, and because the islands are a popular tourist destination. Unfortunately, ripoffs are not uncommon. "Is their anyway to complain about a restaurant in Büyükada?" one TTP traveler asked. "Our invoice was 660 Turkish Lira for 4 people without alcohol drinks it is unbelievable. You may want to bring a picnic lunch and beverages with you from Istanbul. Don't forget your bathing suit as you may find the chance for a dip in the sea. By the way, the five smaller islands—Tavşan, Yassı (Plati), Sivri (Oxia), Sedef and Kaşık (Pita)—are not served by ferries and are essentially uninhabited, although Yassıada was the detention site of ex-prime minister Adnan Menderes in 1961 while he was being tried by a military tribunal for subverting Turkish democracy. He was found guilty and executed there.